How to Install a Sliding Glass Door - This Old House

author This Old House   5 год. назад

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How to Build Porch Stairs

Watch the full episode: Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva builds a safe and solid set of porch stairs. (See below for a shopping list, tools, and steps.) Click here to SUBSCRIBE to the official This Old House YouTube channel: Shopping List for How to Build Porch Stairs: - Pressure-treated 2x6s and 2x12s, for building the new stairs - 3-inch deck screws, to fasten together the stair parts - 8-inch structural timber screws, for securing the staircase to the house - 3-inch masonry screws, to fasten bottom frame to concrete walk - PVC trim board and plugs, for making the risers and trimming out the stringers - Composite deck boards, used as stair treads - Welded-steel handrail - Composite railing system Tools for How to Build Porch Stairs: - Wrecking bar, to pry up the old stair treads - Reciprocating saw, for cutting out the old staircase - Framing square, to lay out stair stringers - Circular saw, to cut lumber - Jigsaw, for notching stringers - Impact driver, for driving screws - Hammer-drill, to drill into concrete - Miter saw, for crosscutting lumber to length - Socket and ratchet wrench, to tighten hex-head fasteners Steps for How to Build Porch Stairs: 1. Pry off the treads from the upper step to gain access to the tops of the stringers. 2. Use a reciprocating saw to cut through the top end of the stringers, freeing the staircase from the porch. 3. Remove and discard the old staircase and any leftover debris. 4. Use a circular saw and jigsaw to cut six new stair stringers from a pressure-treated 2x12. Cut four steps into each stringer. 5. Screw a pressure-treated 2x6 to the existing porch frame to provide extra support for mounting the staircase. 6. Space the six stringers 16 inches on center, then fasten a 2x6 across the tops of the stringers. Attach the 2x6 with 3-inch decking screws. 7. Screw a 2x6 across the bottom ends of the stringers, then attach a 2x6 toekick to the previously installed 2x6. 8. Set the stringer assembly against the porch and secure it with several 8-inch structural screws. 9. Use a hammer-drill to bore screw-pilot holes through the bottom 2x6 and into the concrete walk. 10. Fasten the bottom of the staircase to the walkway with 3-inch masonry screws. 11. Cut four risers from PVC trim boards. 12. Attach each PVC riser to the stringers using specially designed screws. Conceal each counterbored screwhead with a PVC plug. 13. Cut and attach PVC trim boards to outer surfaces of the stringers on the left and right end of the staircase. 14. Cut stair treads from composite decking; screw the treads to the stringers. 15. Install a welded-steel handrail, making sure it’s between 34 and 38 inches above the nose of the stair tread. 16. Assemble a composite railing system, which includes a handrail and balusters, to fit alongside the welded-steel handrail. Watch new episodes of Ask TOH:,,,00.html Follow This Old House and Ask This Old House: Facebook: Twitter: Pinterest: G+: Instagram: Tumblr:

How to Install a Solid-Wood Exterior Door

Watch the full episode: General contractor Tom Silva helps a homeowner install a new, energy-efficient wood door. (See below for a shopping list, tools, and steps.) Click here to SUBSCRIBE to the official This Old House YouTube channel: Shopping List for How to Install a Solid-Wood Exterior Door: - Pre-hung wood entry door - Minimal-expansion insulating foam, to seal cracks and voids - Exterior-grade acrylic-latex caulk, to seal threshold - 2 1/2-inch nails for pneumatic nailer - Wood shims, to shim the doorframe - 3-inch decking screws, to fasten doorjamb to framing - Fiberglass insulation, to fill large voids Tools List for How to Install a Solid-Wood Exterior Door: - Hammer - Slotted screwdriver - Utility knife - Flat bar, for prying off casings - Reciprocating saw, to cut through nails - Level - Caulk gun - Pneumatic nailer and air compressor - Cordless drill - Impact driver Steps for How to Install a Solid-Wood Exterior Door: 1. Tap out the hinge pins from the old door using a hammer and a slotted screwdriver. Remove the door. 2. Use a utility knife to cut along the outer edge of the interior door casings. Slice through any paint or old caulk. 3. Pry the side and head casings free using a hammer and flat bar. 4. Use a reciprocating saw fitted with a metal-cutting blade to slice through the nails holding the side and head jambs in place. 5. Pry the jambs out of the doorway opening. 6. Check to ensure that the threshold and side casings are level. 7. Fill the voids around the doorway opening with minimal-expansion insulating foam. 8. Apply a thick, continuous bead of acrylic-latex caulk along the threshold. 9. Set the pre-hung door into the opening, then tip it up and into place. 10. Center the door in the opening, then check the side jambs for plumb. 11. Secure the door by nailing through the exterior casings and into the jambs. 12. Tap out the hinge pins and remove the new door from its frame. 13. Pull out the weatherstripping along the side jambs. 14. Slip wood shims behind the side jamb on the hinge side of the doorframe. Then use a level to ensure the jamb is perfectly straight and not bowed in or out. 15. Shoot 2 1/2-inch nails through the jamb and shims into the house framing. 16. Drill screw-shank clearance holes through the jambs; position the holes where they'll be hidden by the weatherstripping. 17. Drive 3-inch decking screws through the holes in the jambs and into the house framing. 18. Repeat Steps 13 through 17 to straighten and secure the latch-side jamb. 19. Cut the shims flush with the jambs using a utility knife. 20. Spray insulating foam into the voids around the doorjambs. 21. Fill any large voids with fiberglass insulation. 22. Reattach the weatherstripping to the jambs. 23. Nail new wood casing around the interior of the door. 24. Caulk the joints between the new doorframe and the exterior casing. 25. Apply an exterior-grade finish to both sides and all four edges of the wood door. Follow This Old House and Ask This Old House: Facebook: Twitter: Pinterest: G+: Instagram: Tumblr:

How To Remove Sliding Patio Doors

Shannon from shows you how to remove an old set of sliding glass patio doors. Video © 2014 SKS Media. Videos produced by SKS Media ( are provided for informational purposes only. The information contained in the videos is intended to give general guidance to simplify DIY (do it yourself) projects. Because tools, products, materials, equipment, techniques, building codes and local regulations are constantly changing, SKS Media cannot and does not assume any responsibility or liability for the accuracy of the information contained therein. Further, SKS Media will not accept any claim for liability related to, but not limited to, omissions, errors, injury, damage or the outcome of any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer to ensure compliance with all applicable laws, rules, codes and regulations for a project. The viewer must always take proper safety precautions and exercise caution when taking on any project. If there are any questions or doubt in regards to the element of a project, please consult with a licensed professional. SKS Media conducts all matters in accordance with the laws of Saskatchewan, Canada.

One Man Roof Truss Raising

Installing cathedral ceiling roof trusses by myself. Span is 26 ft and center is 16 ft winch is a harbor freight 10 dollar unit.

How to Replace a Vinyl Floor with Ceramic Tile

Watch the full episode: Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva helps a homeowner replace the peeling, vinyl floor in his bathroom with a ceramic tile floor Click here to SUBSCRIBE to the official This Old House YouTube channel: Time: 2 days Cost: $200 Skill Level: Moderate Tools List for Replacing a Vinyl Floor with Ceramic Tile: Open ended adjustable wrench Utility knife Pry bar Hammer Putty knife Jigsaw Carbide tip knife Notched trowel Drill driver Wet saw Rubber float Sponge Bucket Shopping List: Tiles Cement board Thinset mortar 1 ¼” cement screws Mesh tape Grout Steps: 1. Before getting started, all the appliances need to be removed. Disconnect and remove any sinks, vanities ( ), and toilets ( ) in the bathroom. Loosen the flange and hold it up with spacers if possible. 2. Next, remove any baseboard trim with the pry bar. 3. Once the floor is clear, peel off the vinyl tiles with a putty knife. With the floor up, now is good opportunity to ensure the subfloor is properly secured. 4. Add cement board to the subfloor to act as a base for the tiles. Cut it to size by scoring it with the carbide tip knife and snapping it, similar to drywall. 5. Apply the thinset to the floor using the notched trowel. 6. Secure the cement board to the floor using the cement screws about 8” apart. Make sure the cement board goes underneath the toilet flange. Cover the seams between the cement board with mesh tape. 7. Dry fit the tiles to see how they will fit in the room. Measure and mark tiles that need to be cut. 8. Cut the tiles using a wet saw. 9. Apply thinset to the cement board using the notched trowel and lay the tiles on the floor. Nippers can be used to cut around the flange. Allow the thinset to cure for 24 hours. 10. Grout the tile after 24 hours. 11. Reinstall the vanity and toilet. Resources: Tom chose a mosaic 12x12 inch tile with mesh backing from Daltile ( ). For the subfloor, he used ¼ inch Wonderboard lite cement board underlayment. For mortar, Tom used versabond thinset. To trim the bottom of the casings, Tom used an osculating saw available at Home Depot ( ). All of these materials can be purchased at a home center. Ask This Old House TV Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we're ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers—and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O'Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook. This Old House releases new segments every Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Keywords: This Old House, How-to, home improvement, DIY, tom silva, tile, floor, bathroom, vinyl replacement, grout, drain Follow This Old House and Ask This Old House: Facebook: Twitter: Pinterest: G+: Instagram: Tumblr:

his Old House general contractor Tom Silva shows how to open up a wall for a large glass slider. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)

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Full episode:

How to Weatherstrip an Exterior Door:

How to Create an Interior Door Opening:

How to Replace a Rotted Windowsill:

Shopping List for How to Install a Sliding Glass Door:
- sliding glass door with solid-vinyl doorjamb
- pressure-treated 2x4s
- 2x4s
- ⅝-inch-thick exterior-grade plywood
- 15-pound builders paper
- quick-setting cement
- minimal-expanding foam, used to insulate around new door
- silicone sealant
- masonry screws
- 3½-inch (16d) nails
- 2½-inch (8d) nails
- 5/16-inch staples
- 3-inch screws
- wood shims
- wood shingles and shingle nails, for finishing new wall section

Tools List for How to Install a Sliding Glass Door:
- reciprocating saw
- 12-pound sledgehammer
- 4-foot level
- hammer drill fitted with masonry bit
- drill/driver
- square shovel
- mixing tub, used for mixing cement
- caulk gun
- pointed trowel
- flat trowel
- hammer stapler
- utility knife

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